Embroidery Projects Update Part 5

In March, I finished cross-stitching Marilyn Leavitt-Imblum’s, “Once Upon A Time” that I plan to give to one of my sisters.  The plan is to frame it and send it to her. 

Since completing this project, I took up stitching a Greek Key rug again that I started back in 2004.  A couple of years ago, I put this pattern into my cross-stitch design program and before resuming stitching, printed out the pattern which has made working on it a lot easier. 

The original pattern is in sections that are in an old dollhouse plan.  The rug is being stitched on 32 count linen over 1, so the stitches are very small.  To make it easier to see, I’m using a magnifying lens that my husband bought me years ago to make stitching this easier.  The rug will be put in the living room of the Green Gables house I made.

Another project that I’m working on is a needlepoint oriental rug kit that I bought back in 2003 at a miniatures show.  At the time, I didn’t know where I would put it and only bought it because I’d seen kits like it at a dollhouse store I used to frequent as a kid.  As time passed, I decided to put it in the daughter’s bedroom in the Lily house. 

I’m trying to stop devoting myself to one embroidery project at a time, which is proving easier said than done.  The Oriental rug is worked on 18 mesh canvas, so the stitches aren’t as small as the Greek Key.  The pattern seemed fairly simple at first, so of late I’ve been working on it a bit more. 

At first I thought that I would finish up with this kit quickly, but this idea disappeared very soon after realizing that this wasn’t the simple pattern I thought it was.  When I started, I primarily used the picture of the rug as a guide instead of referring to the pattern constantly.  Then I noticed that the design in the picture on one part of the rug varied slightly from the pattern and thought that it had something to do with the needlepoint stitch format. I was determined to be on the alert to match this discrepancy.  However, as I worked it became apparent that it was just a mistake of the person who stitched the rug for the picture and wasn’t really meant to be in the finished product.  So this meant that the pattern was completely correct. 

This belief then proved to be wrong!  As I continued stitching the design in the four corners of the center section I kept glancing at the pattern as I stitched.  I then decided to begin stitching the darker blue line that goes around the outside of the center of the rug.  This was when I realized that the pattern contained mistakes as well.  The pattern painted on the needlepoint canvas clearly shows a white or ivory colored line that’s nearly continuous around the outside of the center section; however, on the pattern this color wasn’t shown in that part.  Even though, the color ivory is represented in the very center part of the pattern.  Nor, is it indicated that it be used again according to the pattern.  Yet, both the picture and the painted design on the canvas indicate otherwise. 

I’m very glad that I followed the advice of the pattern and started in the center and then worked outward because the directions warned me that if “adjustments” needed to be made then this would be easier.  My thinking is that their definition of adjustment is really just synonymous with mistake. 

Dollhouse Enclosure Project Update

In February, I posted an update of what progress I’ve made with enclosing my dollhouse.  Last weekend, the weather was warm enough to have windows open.  So, I took advantage of the unseasonably high winter temperature, flung open the windows, and resumed working on re-gluing the Velcro strips to the plastic sheets using the epoxy glue.

The glue didn’t smell too fumy or toxic, which was great and seemed to set fairly quickly.  This seemed to make the whole gluing process go faster than I’d anticipated. With the large plastic sheets now affixed to the rear of the dollhouse, I was ready to begin on the curved attic section. 

I had long thought about how this opening could be enclosed and the only solution I came up with was to use a thin sheet of flexible plastic.  Since I wanted to use something that I already had on hand, my only option was to use a sheet protector.  I cut the sheet protector to the size and shape necessary to cover the attic opening.  After cutting some black Velcro that I’d used for another project to the length needed, I began gluing it to the roof using clear tacky glue.  At first, it seemed that I wouldn’t need to clamp the Velcro to the roof, but then found that clamping was necessary.  With the clamps holding the Velcro strips to the roof while waiting for the glue to dry, I then focused on gluing with the epoxy glue the Velcro to the plastic.

Again, this was a lot easier than I had envisioned and only a small amount of clamping was necessary since the epoxy glue dried faster than the tacky glue.  After leaving everything to set for a few hours, I returned later to see how everything functioned once it was put together.  I laid the plastic sheet protector that now had Velcro strips glued to it over the attic opening, being careful to match up the Velcro and then stepped back to admire my handiwork.

Success!!  Or so I thought at the time.  The plastic over the attic opening seemed to work out really well and it was cut exactly to fit the opening perfectly.  I then took ahold of one end of the flexible plastic to see how removing it would work.  To my horror, the Velcro that was glued to the sheet protector came off and remained attached to its mate that was glued to the roof.  It became readily apparent that this method wasn’t going to work as I had thought.

I thought about my problem some, but couldn’t quickly come up with a solution.  My husband said that I should use Velcro that already had adhesive on the backside, because that might keep it in place better.  He had used some for an old computer project of his and still had some left over.  I took some of it and affixed it to the sheet protector in the exact same places where the glued strips had been.  Then, I again laid it over the opening and everything seemed to be great.  I tried to make a minor adjustment to the placement and discovered that when I pulled up one corner the Velcro that had been glued to the roof began coming off.  It became very apparent that I needed to use the adhesive backed Velcro for the roof as well.

Unfortunately, my husband didn’t have anymore left, and I also found that I had torn part of the sheet, so I would have to visit the local fabric store and buy more.  Last evening after work, we made a trip out to the fabric store where I bought more adhesive backed Velcro. 

Today, I cut the Velcro to the length needed after completely removing the old glued on Velcro that was coming off.  I cut another plastic sheet protector to the size I needed, using the torn one as a pattern.  Then, I stuck half of the Velcro strips to the roof, taking care to cover the roof areas that still had dried glue on it.  Once those pieces were in place, I placed the remaining Velcro strips over their mates that were adhered to the roof.  Then, I began laying the plastic sheet over the attic opening being careful to align the sheet so that the top edge was flush with the underside of the roof’s verge boards and trim.

So far, the adhesive Velcro is working out nicely and the dollhouse is now completely enclosed.  The next step of course is to give the entire dollhouse a thorough dusting inside and out and to also dust off the large table it sits on.  My hope is that by enclosing this dollhouse that it will stay dust free more easily because the rooms aren’t open to the air.  Then I’ll only have to dust off the outside of the house and the table in order to keep it looking descent.

Here are pictures of the finished project.

Dollhouse Enclosure Project

Earlier this year I had made the resolution that I would come up with a way to enclose one of my dollhouses.  I had made an attempt in the past using clear plastic panels and thin sheet magnets, but it turned out that the magnets weren’t strong enough to hold together.

I had toyed with the idea of using Velcro and plastic panels.  This idea had progressed to the point that I bought some thin green Velcro that was intended to be used for gardening that I planned to use, but had never gotten much further with my progress. 

The project made it onto my list of 2012 resolutions and pretty much remained in the background as I worked on the other items on my list of resolutions.  After talking to my dad via Skype on Christmas day about my dollhouse, I suddenly felt inspired to work on enclosing the house again.

After purchasing a few more supplies for the project last night, I set to work on it again early in the afternoon.  Using clear Tacky glue, I glued pieces of the thin green Velcro to the top and bottom opening of the living room.  Then, I glued sections of the Velcro to the clear plastic panels, carefully matching up the lengths of Velcro that had been glued to the opening around the living room.

I set the plastic panel aside, and when I returned I expected that the glue would’ve set.  Unfortunately, I learned that the Tacky glue wasn’t holding the Velcro to the plastic very well.  I lamented at this and my husband suggested that I use super glue. 

I think I’ve mentioned in a previous post about my miniature projects that I have almost a phobia about working with super glue.  My fear is still intact, but I did follow my husband’s suggestion and tried using super glue to adhere the Velcro to the plastic panels.  This appears to have worked out great.

We’ll see what happens as this project progresses.  So far, only one room is enclosed on one side of the house.  I have the panel for the 2^nd floor bedroom in the works now and will try it out on the house tomorrow.

The back side of the dollhouse will be the biggest challenge because I’ll have to use more than one panel to cover it.  I haven’t quite worked out how I’ll make this work, but I’m sure I’ll come up with something.

Electrical Problems Solved!

When I installed the tiled bathroom floor back in November, I took that opportunity to check over my dollhouse to see if there were any repairs that needed to be done.

That’s when I noticed a lighting issue on the 1^st floor of the house.  This dollhouse is electrified using round wire.  The previous month I’d received an email from my favorite local miniatures store saying that they were closing their doors at the end of 2011 and knew it was time to head out there for some much needed electrical supplies.

The electrical problems were that the ceiling light in the entry hall didn’t work and then the lights in the living room were all turning on no matter which switch that controlled the living room lights was turned on.

The living room light situation confused me and I decided to put off the repairs until later when I could devote the time to resolving them.  I examined the light in the entry hall and determined that it had come unattached to the ceiling.  I glued it back in place and then examined the wiring when it still didn’t turn on.  The wiring appeared to be fine, so I examined it’s connection to the control panel on the back of the house.  I have diodes attached to the lights in the entry hall and the dining room, so that the light from them is dimmer than they would be without it.  My feeling is this gives the lights a more realistic appearance.

My belief was that the diode on the entry hall light needed to be replaced.  I don’t have an electrical engineering degree, but that doesn’t mean that it’s necessary when wiring a dollhouse or miniature scene.  However, when I’ve developed a theory about any electrical problem I’m having—I consult my husband who has an EE degree.  I told him my theory and that I couldn’t find any other reason for the problem and he said that yes, diodes can die after awhile.  We went out to a local Radio Shack and got a couple of new ones.  I replaced the dead diode with the new one and my entry hall lighting problem was solved!

Entry Hall with fixed ceiling light

Today I was able to look into the electrical problems in the living room.  I got out my binder that contains the diagrams I made when I first electrified the house.  Switched on each of the lights that had issues back in November one by one.  Next to my notations for each switch, I wrote down what was happening now. 

It seemed that my problem had changed.  Now the lights all worked independently except that the lamp in the front living room window would come on with the entry hall light.  I pulled the house a little off the table that it sits on, so that I could examine the wiring underneath.  The wiring looked fine with the exception of the fact that the masking tape that had been holding to the underside of the house had come loose and was now hanging down.  This led me to examine the wiring of the control panel at the back of the house. 

I unscrewed it from the back and it appeared that everything was fine.  Then I noticed that the diode from the entry hall light was reaching all the way over to the 7^th switch that controlled the lamp in the front window.  The diode is pretty much swathed in tape, but there’s a bit of the end that’s not protected and I felt that I might have found my problem.  I gently pulled the diode a little away from the panel and tested out the 7^th switch.  Surprise, the living room lamp lit up without the entry hall light turning on as well. 

Living Room

I still asked my husband if this was possible and he confirmed my theory.  His suggestion was to put tape over the traces on the back of the control panel.  This would keep the diode from coming in contact with them and keep it from creating a short, which was causing my electrical problems.  He gave me some wonderful electrical tape to use for this, and I also used it to tape the wiring underside of the dollhouse’s first floor.

It’s great that I was able to resolve my electrical problems without spending any money or having to reconstruct my wiring system.

Bathroom Floor

Several years ago I came up with the idea to tile the bathroom floor of the Lily house.  I decided to use cut-up pieces of paint sample cards for the tiles.  You can purchase dollhouse-sized tiles to use but I wanted to try a more economical method.  I took a wallpaper sample with me to my local Home Depot to help me choose which color to get.  I picked out six different colors to use to make tiles.  Each set of three colors were different shades of pink and green.  I took several sheets of each color to cut into tiles. 

Once I had the paint sample sheets I began to make the floor.  I chose a thin sheet of cardboard to use as the floor.  I made a pattern by first laying the sticky side of contact paper onto the bathroom floor of the dollhouse and cutting it to size with an X-acto knife.  I then pulled up the contact paper off the floor and stuck it onto brown wrapping paper. After making sure that the contact paper was stuck smoothly to the paper, I cut away the excess paper and was left with a pattern to use to cut the cardboard to the correct size.  I put the pattern on the cardboard I had chosen to use as the floor and drew around the outside edge of it with a pen.  I lifted off the pattern and then cut around the lines with scissors.  Once the floor was cut out, I tested it in the bathroom to check the fit.  The cardboard fit and then I painted it with several coats of white acrylic paint.  The white paint on the cardboard was going to be the tile grout. 

Then I began the arduous task of cutting the paint sample cards into tiles.  Each card had the color number and name printed on it.  This made part of the card unusable, so I didn’t cut those parts into squares.  I saved the names of the paint samples in case I found later that I would need more.  Each paint sample card had it’s own Ziploc bag.  Also when the paint dried on the floor I put that into a large Ziploc bag to keep it protected. 

As it turned out it was a good thing that I did that I put the floor into the bag because this project took very long to complete.  I started out by first cutting the paint samples on a self-healing cutting mat into thin strips that were ¼” wide using an X-acto knife.  When this was completed I then cut the strips into ¼” squares.  This was a tedious process and I found could only be done in small segments at a time due to the fact that it required me to sit still and make repeated cutting movements.  Finally in 2011, I finished cutting the paint sample cards and was ready to start gluing them onto the white painted cardboard floor once I had come up with a pattern.  I spent some time playing around with colored pencils testing out different color patterns on graph paper.  After awhile, I came up with a good pattern idea. 

Using the pattern I had made on graph paper as a guide I began gluing the paint sample tiles to the floor being careful to allow some of the white to show between the tiles.  I used the Easy Flow Tacky glue for my glue and thinned it out on the cardboard using a plastic card saved just for this purpose.  It took about a week for me to finish gluing all the tiles to the cardboard.  The floor tiles weren’t perfectly aligned, but they didn’t look terrible.  Looking at my own bathroom floor I could see imperfections in it and so I was satisfied with my work on this floor.  Thankfully, I had gotten enough tiles so I didn’t need to get any more paint sample cards.  To fill in blank spaces at the ends instead of cutting the tiles to fit into these empty spaces, I glued larger tiles to fill the space and let the excess of the tile overhang the floor.  Once those parts were filled in, I set the floor aside to dry completely.  When it was dried I turned the floor over and using scissors cut away the excess tile so that it was flush with the outside edge of the floor.

 

When the floor was completely tiled, I tested the fit in the dollhouse bathroom.  I was happy with the fit and tested out how it would look with the furniture in it by putting the sink, bathtub, and screen in the room.  To ensure that the tiles would stay glued to the floor, I decided to paint it with clear acrylic varnish.  I had done the same thing with the kitchen floor and was pleased with the results.  I painted the floor with two coats of the clear acrylic varnish. 

When the varnish was dry, I cleaned the bathroom floor with Endust as a way to remove the dust and any dirt that might be there.  Then squeezed a bead Easy Flow Tacky glue onto the floor.  I spread the bead glue into a thin glue layer with a plastic card and then put the tiled floor on top of the glue.  I pressed the floor firmly into place and covered it with waxed paper to protect it was being marred by anything during the drying process.  Then weighted the floor down with small books, a dumbbell, and a small brick. 

 

I let it dry overnight and the next day, removed the objects weighting the floor down and the waxed paper and then needed to move the furniture and other accessories into the bathroom.